Learning to Wash Elephants

When I posted this shot, my kids finally understood that I was Not At Home.  

Jules and I had decided to stay an extra full day at Luang Prabang, and then go on to Siem Reap, Cambodia, where we would reunite with four of our ASV folks.  Most of the group was heading to an elephant camp in Thailand, run by friends. While we'd been out with Big Brother Mouse, some folks had gone on a local elephant tour not far from Luang Prabang, and it sounded great.
     As always, my goal was to get out of town.  Wilderness, or at least countryside, calls.  So Sirivan lined us up with a river tour, and it was so much more than I ever expected. 
                      
We had two destinations lined up.  The first was to Elephant Village, a sanctuary for elephants who have been rescued from the timber trade.  The elephants in Laos are endangered, their numbers diminishing.  Traditionally used to log the forests, many have been abandoned after they become injured or too old for the work.  These elephants are given a new home here; trained to carry tourists on a countryside ride through the trails and rivers.  They get veterinary care, and there is a new breeding program underway as well.  This sanctuary and resort at Elephant Village also gives the local village people of Xieng Lom a sustainable income, instead of  slash and burn agriculture.  


We climbed up a small tower to mount our elephants.  Then off we went, down a steep trail switchbacking to the Nam Khan river, through the river, eventually looping back to Elephant Village.





The picture to right is my computer desk-top pic at work.  And my students' first GeoQuiz!



Our new Aussie friends.  The fellow on the right teaches at the University of Australia, Saigon.  There are quite a few Australians and westerners making careers in SE Asia, and taking what for them are local vacations.  Nice.









Jules and me rockin' and rollin' on our elephant - a long way to the ground! I was in the command seat here, but NOT in any kind of control!  The Mahout was taking the picture, and he and the elephant knew how to take care of us.

Back at the Village, feeding our elephants bananas.  Happy critters!







A look at the pool.  There are beautiful bungalows to stay at, and a very nice restaurant.  We had a buffet lunch, before heading to the next adventure.
Our guide was an example of Lao etiquette.  Jules and I were engaged in talk with our Aussie professor and his girlfriend, when our guide came to tell us "whenever you feel you are ready, we could go on to the waterfall . . ." which could be read as "take your time, whenever".  I wasn't sure about that though, and I took it to mean "Please be aware of the time, we need to get going!".    The Lao demeanor of relaxation, calm, and politeness in dealing with foreigners is unmatched - and it made us think a lot about our own behavior.  We had to know ourselves if we were inconveniencing anyone, since certainly they would never tell us.

So, on to the next adventure!  We had no idea of what was planned, other than it involved a waterfall.   We were walked down to the river's edge, where we stepped into a narrow canoe-like motorboat.  Then, upriver we went for about 20 minutes.

Pulling up fish traps and nets.  This river seemed very clean and cool compared to the Mekong.

We saw kayakers going out and back.  This is one of many ways that tourists are seeing the wilderness in Laos, as eco-tourism is on the rise.  I hear that down south, there are fabulous waterfalls, and of course there is Vang Vieng, between Vientiane and Luang Prabang, which sounds like a natural paradise - if you can steer clear of the enhancements in the cocktails, and the tubing tourists who haven't learned their limits yet.   

We pulled up at a spot on the riverbank, and walked into the woods.  We came to a thatched booth, where one could choose some activities - hang out at Tat Sae Waterfall, take an elephant ride, or do an "Elephant Wash".   We chose the  Elephant Wash.  
Jules and I talked about what this might be.  She was picturing some kind of spray hose and a paddock where we might wash elephants.  I was picturing standing in a river with a large brush on a long handle, scrubbing.  
We were both waaaay off base.

We were told to leave our possessions at the booth.  And to please remove our shoes, as well as our watches.  We wondered what this could mean.  Then we were guided to a corral, where we were invited to step up onto our elephants - the elephants knelt, we stepped up onto their left knee, and climbed up onto their necks.  My elephant was not too large, a youngster, and his age became a large factor fairly soon.

We followed the mahout up a winding trail, and then the guide turned and asked, "You can swim?"  I said, well yes!  now REALLY wondering what was up.
A few steps later, we topped a small rise, and below us was a large pool of water, and Tat Sae waterfall flowing into it.  My elephant speeded up, and plunged into the pool, which was COOOLDD!!   We were gasping, and whooping in surprise.  My elephant loved the water - they all did.  

He played hard - swimming deeper, and heading right for the waterfall, and then diving under.  The water came up to my chin, and I could feel my elephant twisting around as I tried to stay roughly above him.  It was like a slow-motion bull ride.  Luckily, prepared by the many horses who have succeeded in dumping me, I had no trouble staying with him.  Certainly I had no control - wherever he wanted to go, that's where we went.  
We swam, dove, spun around, and if I made too much noise, I got a trunkful of water aimed over the shoulder at my face.  


The water was perfect, refreshing, and cool! 





Below, a cabin for changing clothes.





The color of the water was a light turquoise, or clear.  Since it was the dry season, I was glad to see this much water still flowing.  The pools were ideal for wading and swimming, and although there were tourists, it was not crowded here at all. 
                                   
 

 Our Australian friend tried the Zip-Line.  He had a blast - until his trouser leg got caught, and he ended up hanging upside-down until rescued!  Unharmed, but can't say the same for the trousers.

The path untaken - I walked up into the forest on a hiking trail, but had to turn around fairly quickly - we were out of time, but more importantly, I was out of insect repellent protection.  
    I can imagine coming back just for hiking.  The forests are so lush, with new types of trees, bird and animal life . . . just waiting to be explored.














Heading back to Elephant Village, and our ride home to Luang Prabang.   We were so lucky and blessed to have had this day - looking back on it, it was such a gift.  And for once, we actually knew it at the time.

The King and the Communists

Lan Xang Hom Khao - the Kingdom of a Million Elephants and the White Parasol - is centered here in Luang Prabang.  The royalty lived here until 1975, when the Communists took over, and sent the last ruler and his family  . . . well, I'm not sure anyone knows their fate.  Or they aren't telling.
But it could be that the royal family's legacy is making a comeback.

The National Museum, as it is now called, was originally the palace built for King Sisavang Vong and designed by the French colonials.  

Luang Prabang is packed with wats - the most beautiful in the world, and the monks are still following their daily rhythms and prayers, undeterred by the dry-season tourists.  But the art work on the interior of the Museum was something truly astonishing, and unlike anything I've ever seen.  No pics allowed, unfortunately. The rooms were spacious and ceilings high. Walls were covered in many places with red tile mosaics, with iridescent pieces and gold inlay, which depict everyday life.  The scenes of farming, worshipping, marriage, trees, rivers and elephants are so absorbing, and so full of life and movement, that it draws you into the art.  It's like a window into a living past.
   The Museum also has the living quarters of the Royal Family - not fancy, but comfortably inviting rooms with a wind-up phonograph and records, and family photos. 
The main hall has displays of gifts from foreign nations, including moon rocks and a plaque from Richard Nixon, and ornate boxes from Russia.  

We stayed at Ban Lao, a hotel run by Sirivan and her sister, ASV alumni.  This Colonial building has a beautiful open-air restaurant area shaded by trees,and bungalows that make it feel homey and rustic while being completely comfortable.  I can't imagine a better place to be in Luang Prabang.

We were very lucky also, in that Sirivan has connections to the old Royals.  We were treated to a Baci ceremony and  performance of old Lao traditional music and dance, guided by a man whose family were counselors to the King.  (I will do some more fact checking on this - I really want to find out more about who this was, and about his work.) 
   He said that the Royals had always encouraged the arts, and that courtly life  included learning the music, dance, costume making and crafts that were the heart of Lao tradition.  After the Communists came, this tradition was gravely endangered; but now, with the new relaxation (and tourist dollars at stake), he is able to revive these arts with young people in the region.  
This performance, right here at our home at Ban Lao, was unforgettable.

  Several of us lunched on the veranda of a recommended eatery in town one afternoon.  A young American man next to us struck up a conversation, overhearing us talk about the old days - he asked, "You mean Laos is really a Communist country?  I thought those flags were just for fun!"  I doubt he knew what he was in for; a history lesson on our involvement here, going back to French colonial times to now.  I have to hand it to him - he actually was really interested, and he was learning from the real primary sources, like K.  
   I don't blame the fellow for being unaware.  But as our Man in Vientiane pointed out, " Take a look at the Vientiane Times.  Do you see any bad news?" Well, no.  On the contrary - reading this English Language national paper, I see only stories on growth, international connections, improvements, and the government hard at work to make the country better every day.  Problems mentioned always have a government solution underway.  Hmm. Much of this news is true.   It's just that there is a lot out there that is true also, but we don't read about it.

We spent a relaxed afternoon just walking around aimlessly.  The wats, home to the monks, were each different in character, and I only wish we had another week to see more.  We stumbled upon a practice session with energetic gongs, drumming, and bells - young men jamming, always fun to listen to!

The night market at Luang Prabang was incredible.  We found the most inexpensive, well-made weaving in Laos.  I asked about whether these crafts could be sold back in the States, but the families are not able to make an amount large enough to be sold at that scale.  So bring a large extra duffle bag  when you come to visit!
My favorite T-shirt . . .

The stairs to the top, several hundred

Our goal was to climb up Mt. Phou Si for the sunset. And we did - along with several tour bus loads of Chinese visitors.  Did I mention this was New Year week?  
The view was worth it.











   

The shrine at the top of Phou-Si

From Phou-Si, looking up the Mekong

As for that sunset, I headed back to my favorite 
place to catch it - Jules went shopping. 
                                                                                                                                                        

Talking to people at the sunset bar, I found the traveler tribe.  The beautiful German woman who was blind in one eye was traveling on her own - she'd had some scary moments in the last year on the road, but she, like so many others, said she'd never trade a second of the journey for any money.  There are real adventurers out here, some out for a few months, some for years.  They have homes to go back to, "real" lives somewhere, but they are in no hurry.  And I have a suspicion that when they are back in that desk job, back at that so-called more real life, it won't be long before they are reaching for that Lonely Planet book on the shelf - and find themselves looking for that favorite backpack... 

Next, our last day in LP, with elephants.                             

Jan 14th - Big Brother Mouse

Games with students at Banchane Primary School

This was what I'd been waiting for.  Hard to believe I was really here, after all - it was a dream triggered by picking up a random mystery novel in the little train depot library in Lyons, Colorado.  The mystery was written by Colin Cotterill, and set in Vientiane, Laos.  I did a double-take on that . .  who sets novels in Vientiane??
After reading the book, Google led to emails, and Colin C. put me in touch with Big Brother Mouse.  And here I am, getting yanked off my feet by a line of kids in a tug-of-war game outside Luang Prabang.  Who knew?  There are worm-holes in the Lyons library . . .  

Here is Big Brother Mouse, the mascot for the Laos Literacy Program based in Luang Prabang and Vientiane.  Sasha Alyson, an ex-pat American, got this going, but the goal was always to make this a Lao-run non-profit, and that goal has been met.  
In Laos, many children outside the few cities have never even seen a book, much less learned to read and write in their own language.  In the interest of helping the people hold on to their culture, become literate and independent, BBM's Lao staff write, illustrate, and publish books to take to the villages. They are fostering the love of story-telling and art that are already part of the cultures of Laos, and bringing new skills to children and adults.  An educated populace is a lot more likely to control its own destiny in the modern world, something long overdue for Laos. Go to: bigbrothermouse.com to learn more.

At the small shop, we meet Sasha and staff, and arrange for tomorrow morning's trip across the river to Banchane School.  Karen M will go with us, she's also been contributing to BBM, and we're all excited to get off the beaten path.

Japan friends, check this out - BBM is looking for funding for a book on Japan!  I funded a small geography book, and they sent a copy to me.  It's in Lao, so I can't read it, but it looks cool!

This is the typical scene along the river, subsistance farming during dry season.  In summer, the river rises to cover much of this riverbank, depositing new soil.  The changes in the river flow due to China's dams may become a problem.

Electricity for these small villages comes from turbines using the river current.  One line from the turbine (in covered rock structure) comes into Banchane.  

                

As we go upriver for about 20 minutes
and then walk to the village, Karen, Jules and I learn more about our BBM hosts.  Lathsavong, below with Karen, grew up in the Plaine de Jars region of upcountry Laos, an area VERY heavily bombed.  As a 10-year old, he and other kids would use slingshots to try to explode UXO left from the war, shooting and ducking . . . to sell the scrap metal to pay for school.  The goal of both Lathsavong and Sipay, our games leader and immensely entertaining reader-aloud, is to get through the University of Laos, in Luang Prabang or Vientiane.  Sipay spent 4 years in a temple in LP, after his father died, and would like to continue in this smaller town.  He says he is wary of gangs in Vientiane; he's heard that young men can be coerced into joining drug rings, and he is not comfortable in the "Big City".  This raised our eyebrows, and will make us look a little closer next time we are in VTE.    The biggest obstacle to university education is cost.  Each year's tuition is a MILLION kip.  Sounds like a lot, right?   It comes to about $150 dollars American.   And this makes it almost out of reach, requiring much dedication and patience.  

 Here, the kids are bringing out benches to sit on as we assemble outside in a big clearing.  It was a Saturday, and school is not in session, but all the teachers, kids, and some parents assembled to see us (the first Westerners to visit in over a year).  This Book Party is a big deal, a huge celebration.
The students spent an hour in class, working on writing and drawing.  This was for real - the teachers took advantage of the gathering, and we got to see what and how they are learning.


In general, the students worked really hard!  They helped each other, and the teachers walked through to guide.  There is now a standard Lao alphabet that everyone learns, although there are many tribal languages here.  


             

Jules presents books from BBM to the teachers and Principal of Banchane Primary School.  BBM also is running programs on teaching teachers how to use the materials, and modern instruction techniques.  This is gaining regional recognition, and they are now hosting clinics.  The movement grows!




Kids get to choose their own book to read for a while.  Then they exchange at school.
They were completely engrossed.




                                                    
GAME TIME!  Evidently, games are not something traditionally part of the school day.  We played Laughing Ball, in which the leader would toss a ball up, and only during its air-time were we allowed to laugh.  Anyone laughing after the ball was in his hands was OUT!  But then you could make your friends laugh!  We also played a game like Simon Says, naming body parts to touch - the leader would sometimes touch a different part than what he said, tricking the kids.  And then of course, Tug-Of-War!   
If the VIDEO looks black, just hit the Play button at bottom.  Too cute for words.

As we went back to Luang Prabang on the boat, we realized how lucky we had been to take part in this celebration.  Siphone, who is running the day-to-day operations, had worked hard to make sure we could attend during our short stay.  Sometimes, it takes days on boats, hiking, and even elephant rides to reach remote villages with books.  And yet here is Banchane, practically across the river from Conde Nast Traveler's recommended $1500 per night hotel rooms with spa and pool in Luang Prabang!    More on that next post.  Meanwhile, time for a cool one at my favorite spot in LP.