The King and the Communists

Lan Xang Hom Khao - the Kingdom of a Million Elephants and the White Parasol - is centered here in Luang Prabang.  The royalty lived here until 1975, when the Communists took over, and sent the last ruler and his family  . . . well, I'm not sure anyone knows their fate.  Or they aren't telling.
But it could be that the royal family's legacy is making a comeback.

The National Museum, as it is now called, was originally the palace built for King Sisavang Vong and designed by the French colonials.  

Luang Prabang is packed with wats - the most beautiful in the world, and the monks are still following their daily rhythms and prayers, undeterred by the dry-season tourists.  But the art work on the interior of the Museum was something truly astonishing, and unlike anything I've ever seen.  No pics allowed, unfortunately. The rooms were spacious and ceilings high. Walls were covered in many places with red tile mosaics, with iridescent pieces and gold inlay, which depict everyday life.  The scenes of farming, worshipping, marriage, trees, rivers and elephants are so absorbing, and so full of life and movement, that it draws you into the art.  It's like a window into a living past.
   The Museum also has the living quarters of the Royal Family - not fancy, but comfortably inviting rooms with a wind-up phonograph and records, and family photos. 
The main hall has displays of gifts from foreign nations, including moon rocks and a plaque from Richard Nixon, and ornate boxes from Russia.  

We stayed at Ban Lao, a hotel run by Sirivan and her sister, ASV alumni.  This Colonial building has a beautiful open-air restaurant area shaded by trees,and bungalows that make it feel homey and rustic while being completely comfortable.  I can't imagine a better place to be in Luang Prabang.

We were very lucky also, in that Sirivan has connections to the old Royals.  We were treated to a Baci ceremony and  performance of old Lao traditional music and dance, guided by a man whose family were counselors to the King.  (I will do some more fact checking on this - I really want to find out more about who this was, and about his work.) 
   He said that the Royals had always encouraged the arts, and that courtly life  included learning the music, dance, costume making and crafts that were the heart of Lao tradition.  After the Communists came, this tradition was gravely endangered; but now, with the new relaxation (and tourist dollars at stake), he is able to revive these arts with young people in the region.  
This performance, right here at our home at Ban Lao, was unforgettable.

  Several of us lunched on the veranda of a recommended eatery in town one afternoon.  A young American man next to us struck up a conversation, overhearing us talk about the old days - he asked, "You mean Laos is really a Communist country?  I thought those flags were just for fun!"  I doubt he knew what he was in for; a history lesson on our involvement here, going back to French colonial times to now.  I have to hand it to him - he actually was really interested, and he was learning from the real primary sources, like K.  
   I don't blame the fellow for being unaware.  But as our Man in Vientiane pointed out, " Take a look at the Vientiane Times.  Do you see any bad news?" Well, no.  On the contrary - reading this English Language national paper, I see only stories on growth, international connections, improvements, and the government hard at work to make the country better every day.  Problems mentioned always have a government solution underway.  Hmm. Much of this news is true.   It's just that there is a lot out there that is true also, but we don't read about it.

We spent a relaxed afternoon just walking around aimlessly.  The wats, home to the monks, were each different in character, and I only wish we had another week to see more.  We stumbled upon a practice session with energetic gongs, drumming, and bells - young men jamming, always fun to listen to!

The night market at Luang Prabang was incredible.  We found the most inexpensive, well-made weaving in Laos.  I asked about whether these crafts could be sold back in the States, but the families are not able to make an amount large enough to be sold at that scale.  So bring a large extra duffle bag  when you come to visit!
My favorite T-shirt . . .

The stairs to the top, several hundred

Our goal was to climb up Mt. Phou Si for the sunset. And we did - along with several tour bus loads of Chinese visitors.  Did I mention this was New Year week?  
The view was worth it.











   

The shrine at the top of Phou-Si

From Phou-Si, looking up the Mekong

As for that sunset, I headed back to my favorite 
place to catch it - Jules went shopping. 
                                                                                                                                                        

Talking to people at the sunset bar, I found the traveler tribe.  The beautiful German woman who was blind in one eye was traveling on her own - she'd had some scary moments in the last year on the road, but she, like so many others, said she'd never trade a second of the journey for any money.  There are real adventurers out here, some out for a few months, some for years.  They have homes to go back to, "real" lives somewhere, but they are in no hurry.  And I have a suspicion that when they are back in that desk job, back at that so-called more real life, it won't be long before they are reaching for that Lonely Planet book on the shelf - and find themselves looking for that favorite backpack... 

Next, our last day in LP, with elephants.